Xhover R5X Build List

Ground Gear


Pit Essentials

FPV Drone Build How-To Basics

What do I need to start getting into FPV drones (quadcopters, multirotors, etc)? Unless you are just going to buy a RTF (ready-to-fly) package, jumping into FPV drones can be very overwhelming. There are so many acronyms for parts you need that until you know what they mean, it will all sound like gibberish. Just to start, FPV stands for First Person View in case you weren’t already aware from one of your other online searches….

This is a basic list of the items you need. Now, you must note that you need to make sure the items you choose will work together. Most items will work well together, but some items (mainly associated with the video equipment) need to be double checked.

Ground Gear

  • Radio Transmitter, Abbreviated as TX
  • Video viewing, typically some sort of goggle but can also be a simple monitor
  • Video receiver, used in conjunction with the video transmitter you will chose on your drone
  • Antenna, attaches to the video receiver


  • Frame, you should start by need determining the size quad you want to build. There are hundreds of choices for nearly every size
  • Motors, most commonly you’re looking at brushless motors and the size of the frame you chose will also depend on what motor size you chose
  • Electronic Speed Controller, abbreviated as ESC, you will need one for each motor. The amperage choice of the ESC’s will be important number to look at here and again depends on the motor choice. There are also combos that include multiple ESC’s on one board (4-in-1)
  • Propellors, often referred to by a 4 digit number. For example 5045 equals a 5.0″ prop with a 4.5 pitch. Many different blade counts and materials are available also.
  • Power Distribution Board, abbreviated as the PDB, this splits the power from the battery to all the components of the drone
  • Flight Controller, abbreviated as FC, this is the brain of the drone. This board houses the gyro that senses the drones position and calculates how to control the motors to maneuver the drone based on the input from the pilot.
  • Receiver, abbreviated as RX, this needs to match your radio transmitter type (FrSky, Futaba, Spektrum, etc). Each transmitter type will also likely have many different receiver options to chose from with varying sizes, ranges, and features.
  • Video Transmitter, abbreviated as VTX, this will send the video signal from the FPV video camera
  • Antenna, attaches to the output of your VTX and is what the video signal is broadcast thru
  • FPV Camera, your eye from the sky that will be your portal to the feeling of soaring with the birds
  • On Screen Display, abbreviated as OSD, this is an optional component that will allow you to see some vital information on your video feed.
  • Battery, typically LIPO batteries and can be of varying cell counts
  • Velcro Battery Strap, used to hold your battery to your frame. These often come as freebies from stores when ordering parts.
  • Buzzer, an optional item that can be triggered from the controller to sound a loud buzzer to help you locate your drone when you crash. Many ESC’s can also be programmed to do a similar function which eliminate the need for an additional part like this.
  • LED Strip, optional part that can help you locate your drone when you crash or can be used just for the added style.

Pit Essentials

  • Hex Wrenches – 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm (some drones may have other sizes, but these will cover most builds)
  • Nut Drivers – 7mm & 8mm, most common sizes for 3-6″ props. Smaller props typically use hardware that screw on with hex drivers or press on without hardware
  • Battery Charger, chargers come in all different configurations and choosing what features are important to you is essential. AC/DC, LIPO capable, multiple batteries (2+), balancing, 80W+ per channel, and up to 6 cell capable are the features I look for.
  • Needle nose pliers and side cutters, small size that convenient to work around your drone
  • Zip Ties – They fix everything
  • Double sided tap – servo tape is commonly used and holds solid
  • Electrical tape – can be helpful in a pinch

The Ultimate Deadbolt

First, a quick backstory on this rig. This build started like most builds, with a stock truck. This was going to be the second series that followed my $50 per week upgrade format. The build series was a huge success and was a steady stream of content, I’ll add the playlist below but it is worth noting that many things have changed since the build series. After the series ended, I stopped worrying about the budget and ended up changing many things such as axles, wheels, tires, electronics, front bumper, and many other details.


The purpose of this article is to give a comprehensive list of all the parts in my Deadbolt as of today, April 30th, 2017, with a couple parts added that will be installed soon.




  • Front Motor Mount – ToyZuki Forward Motor Mount – Requires modifications to the top shafts, WATCH THIS VIDEO
  • Top Shaft #1 – Stock – Used in ToyZuki mount, requires modification
  • Top Shaft #2 – Axial Racing – Used in transmission, requires modification
  • Transmission Case – Vanquish Transmission Case
  • Transmission Gears – Axial Transmission Gears
  • Transmission Outputs – Incision Chromoly Outputs
  • Transmission Idler Gear Shaft – Vanquish Idler Gear Shaft
  • Intermediate Shaft – MIP Dig Shaft – Goes between ToyZuki mount and transmission case
  • Driveshafts – MIP SCX10 Driveshafts – I swapped the outputs for versions that used 4mm set pins for easier use
  • Driveshaft Hubs – MIP 5MM Hub x 4- This uses a 4mm set pin like the stock Deadbolt driveshafts which is much better than the 3mm set pins that the MIP SCX10 Driveshafts use. These are not required, they are just something I am picky about.

Front Axle:

Rear Axle:


Rolling Stock


Budget Build Playlist

Again, note that a lot of the items I use and suggest in this video series change by the end.

Week 11 – Trans Gears & Motor Plate

The beginning of building the transmission up to bulletproof status begins here. SuperShafty.com provided his Ultimate Wraith motor plate and a set of steel gears for the transmission.


Week 10.5 Special – Axial R35 BFG’s

A special delivery required a special video. A mid-week update! I didn’t want to delay so I bent my rules a little. Thursday will still have your regularly scheduled video however!

Week 10 – Vanquish Knuckles & Carter Fab Panels

Time to replace the stock knuckles with some Vanquish Products Wraith knuckles. After that I did a visual upgrade with some aluminum panels from Carter Fab.

Week 9 – ARB Licensed Grip Fab Locker

I am working out of town this week and decided to do a phone interview with the creator of these new pieces. I always enjoy discussing products with the people that have developed them, hope you all enjoy it as well.

Week 8 – Holmes Hobbies Crawlmaster Expert

I was excited to hear that Holmes was bringing in a new machine wound version of his popular Crawlmaster motor. The 13t (a 13t 5 slot is approx equal to a 27t 3 slot) hand wound version is my prefered choice for a brushed motor in the Wraith but it is quite expensive. These new versions bring the cost way down for those that are willing to sacrifice a little bit of power. It seemed like the perfect mix for this build.

Week 7 – Futaba S9157 Servo Upgrade

It was finally time to replace the stock servo. I of course looked to Futaba for my replacement of choices.

Vanquish Products Vaterra Twin Hammers Rear Trailing Arms

I received some first release pieces of the brand new Vanquish Products rear Trailing Arms for the Vaterra Twin Hammers. This video goes in depth on the design and function of the arms, as well as a little bit of running footage.

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